web space | website hosting | Business Hosting Services | Free Website Submission | shopping cart | php hosting
The Rig Bin




Tackle Box


Bait Bucket

Fly Fishing Section

Record List

T he Knotless knot has revolutionised rig making for the specimen angler, especially when incorporated with the hair rig, whether fishing for carp, barbel or tench and is so simple to tie.


               The Bolt Rig
The bolt rig since it's conception has taken carp fishing
into another dimension, it is so effective it is now used
world wide, providing instant hooking as the carp moves
off with the bait.


An in-line lead system was the downfall of this
common carp, by pushing the swivel into the
lead cavity turns a running lead into a bolt rig.


                   The Lead safety clip ( korda )
These are used mainly by Carp,Tench and Barbel anglers
here you can see the effectiveness and benefit of using this rig, 
when snagged the clip opens releasing the lead whilst you stay in contact
with your quarry.


The Safety Clip Rig


   The Pop-up Rig
This rig incorporates a solar depth charge pop-up weight
they are excellent due to the ease that they can be moved
up and down the hooklength without damaging it.
They come in various sizes and are quick to change over,
a strip of rubber keeps them in place.


The Grinner Knot

This knot is a very well known and reliable knot and one of those essential basic knots that will prove useful in a wide variety of carp fishing situations. It is also known as the Uni-Knot. It is a very reliable knot and should be used if possible in preference to a half blood knot for attaching hooks, swivels and terminal tackle. It can be used on a wide range of line diameters.

It maintains a high percentage of the lines strength and should be used for monofilament only. It is not recommended for braided lines.

Make sure that once you make enough turns on each side at least 5 to ensure it works effectively.


Take your line and thread it through the eye of the hook or swivel.


Make a loop by retuning the tag end back over the mainline.


Now make five or six turns around the mainline and through the loop.


Bring the tag end out parallel with the mainline


Moisten the knot and gently bring the turns down neatly.


Now gently draw the knot down to the eye of the hook or swivel making sure it neat and tight and then trim off the tag end. Leave a couple of mm in case of any slippage in bedding down.




This knot is one of the best known and most useful knots in a carp angler's armoury and will work equally effectively with braided lines as it does with mono. It is easy to tie and can be used for attaching all kind of terminal tackle. When tied correctly this knot should achieve close to 100% knot strength. Make sure that once you have passed the hook or swivel through the loop that all parts of the knot are drawn down neatly together.


Take your line and double it back on itself to give you around a six inch double length.


Pass the doubled length through the eye of the swivel.


Form a loop and pass the end back through the loop


Pass the end loop over the top of the Hook or swivel.


Gently draw down the tag end and mainline to form the knot an moisten as you do so


Ensure the knot is firmly drawn down tight and then trim off the tag end to leave a couple of mm in case of any slippage in bedding down



A great connection knot for the end of your hooklink allowing you to use quick links and quick change swivels.


Double your line back on itself


Bring the end round and over itself to form a loop.


Go over the main line and then back through the loop


Gently draw tight at both ends, moistening before you do so.



Firstly Lead is a VERY volatile material with quite a low melting temperature. So I would have to start with the dangers of working with lead.

I'll try to be as brief as possible. If you want to make weights for yourself or friends there are many dangers namely: - There is always the danger of lead poisoning and getting burnt, so follow a few simple rules.

Only melt lead in well ventilated areas. If using your garage or shed leave the door open as well as a window.

Keep out all children, pets and teenagers (if you tell one not to do something you can bet your life that when you turn your back they do it). Been there, done it and have a teenager who nearly lost an eye.

Keep ALL water and moisture away from the molten lead (even a bead of sweat can cause serious damage). A splash of water can cause a nasty explosion. Wear appropriate clothing. i.e, overalls, heat resistant gloves (not those red plastics things), boots, and safety glasses.

Use a sensible cast iron pan that will hold about 8 - 10 Kgs. If you nick one from the kitchen IT WILL break very easily and the FPO (Fishing Permissions Officer) will not be very happy about it. A cast iron ladle with a lip is also a must.


A cast iron griddle placed between two concrete blocks is a good start to place the pan on. Don't be tempted to make them on the BBQ, IT WILL break.


Calor Gas is ideal for lead making but PLEASE make sure the burner is SAFELY held in a position beneath the pot of melting lead about 2 inches from the base of the pan.

DO NOT SMOKE OR EAT while making lead weights. If you smoke you WILL get a nasty headache and if you eat while making weights there is the danger of lead poisoning. Make sure you wash properly before eating.

OK, Scary stuff over (well nearly anyway). As an Ex Fireman, 'Rules are Rules' but some are meant to be broken. Please keep a bucket of cold water with a pillow case in handy just in case of burns, but well away from the molten lead. First aid for deep burns is to cover burnt areas with wet cold pillow case and keep it cold for up to 20 mins and seek medical help asap. (Lecture over).

I forgot: you will also need a good strong vice unless you have the new moulds with wooden handles.

Firstly gather your lead. Beg, Steal, Borrow or buy from a scrap metal merchants (around 0.50 per kilo should be about right). Try to get clean lead. Sometimes it is covered in paint or roofing materials and these can cause a problem on there own. Cut the lead into small pieces because it melts a lot quicker that way.

You will obviously need a weight mould and I do not wish to advertise but generally the more you pay for the mould the better the end product will be.

When you have everything to hand put a small amount of lead into the pan with the ladle so that it is the same temperature of the lead at the right time and light the burner. You need quite a good flame to start the melting process and when sufficient lead is in the pan and molten the flame should be turned down so the molten lead is not bubbling. At this stage you will need to remove the waste material from the surface of the lead. To do this just scrape the surface with the ladle and gently pour against inside edge of the pan at an angle keeping waste (slag) in the ladle. This slag can now be removed by tapping the ladle on a solid surface, i.e. garage floor. This process may have to be repeated during the making of leads.

Don't be tempted to pre-heat your mould on top or beside the heating pan. It could distort and on first moulding could give an improper weight shape. The best way to pre-heat your mould for correct moulding temperature is to make 2 or 3 leads and simply put them gently back into the heated pan.

This is the time when moulding can take over and you can become forgetful so make sure you have your gloves on. If making weights with swivels put swivel/s onto weight loop/s and place in groove/s of weight mould. Bring the 2 surfaces together and hold securely either in the vice or by the wooden handles.

Take the ladle about half full of molten lead to mould and pour steadily into the filling hole (spruce) of mould. This takes a bit of practice but just remember to be careful and not to be too quick. It may sound silly but you can also be too slow. If you stop pouring and then carry on the lead will not correctly form. If the weight comes out with holes in it the mould is too cold. Again you will learn this with practice.

When the mould is full it will overlow into the spruce, stop filling and return ladle to the pan. This is the time when you have to watch the colour of the lead changing. It will all go to the same colour in a few seconds (you learn with practice) open the mould and allow the newly formed weight to fall on the floor. Leave them there and you're ready to start all over again.

After about 4 weights being made its 'bingo you're on your way'. PLEASE remember though that your weights will remain hot for a very long time. Don't try to rush and cool them in water. REMEMBER lead and water do not mix. When cold cut off the spruce (the unwanted section of lead) with snips and remove any rough edges with a medium file.


Now for the exciting part. Colouring and Camouflaging your weights if you want to that is. You can buy all sorts of coloured powders now with different flecks in them but you cannot beat experimenting.

You have to remember that this is the ONLY time water and lead can or should be used together.

You will still need to wear gloves, have long sleeves, wear trousers and boots because of the dangers but they are not so severe.

Right, you will need: Coating Powders (take brown for a start), a bowl of clean water about 4inches deep, a wide (and deep container) if you have plenty of powder), the gas and heating gun, an old pair of forceps, vice or something to hold the burner at right angles, and a metal container such as an old paint kettle. Take a 3oz bomb for instance.

With the burner at right angles light the gas but with a medium flame (you'll get to know with experience). Put enough powder in container that will cover the lead. Hold weight with forceps fairly tight. But not too tight as to damage swivel and take to centre of flame turning it often for about 8 seconds (no more) then push the weight into the powder as far as you can. Turn the weight continually and hold in the powder for 3-5 seconds. Remove the weight and plunge it into the water for about 10 seconds then hang it up to cool down. Always remembering that it is still very hot. Generally the larger the weight the longer the heating process. A small weight such as 1/4oz will only need about 2 seconds of heat or it will simply melt.

Now what we have made is a textured (or bumpy) brown weight. Exactly the same process can be used with many colours particularly the gravel and black colours. For a plain coloured weight, after coating with powder reheat over flame turning all the time for about 5 seconds then hang up by the swivel to cool down. If we take the process a little further and you want camouflaged weights here's a little trick. Take green or brown powders for instance. If you plunge the weight into the water and then heat over the very end of the flame you will end up with a mottled green or brown camouflaged weight.

With a little bit of experimenting you can mix powders to get all sorts of effects. The black powder with a little gravel added makes an excellent bumpy dark brown weight.

Another little trick you can use is that if you have pear or zip lead moulds. Once the weights have been made and cooled down properly squeeze them in the vice on both sides (or hit with a large hammer) and hey presto you will now have squared pear weights and torpedo shaped bombs. They both aid casting and lay on their side on the bottom and don't roll about. They are also excellent when powder coated.ss

Hope this helps with your weight making but PLEASE remember the dangers of molten lead. They are very real and you will get burnt occasionally (Murphy's law), just try to keep them to a minimum. Last but not least, the best method of cleaning up after lead making is to pick up large pieces and hoover the rest.


Our thanks to:-

Sid [woody] Wooddeson

For this contrbution


The finished Leads


Shaping Leads in a vice


A typical lead mould

This site will be constantly updated with numerous knots,
rigs, etc.
If you have an article you wish to have published please email us.





The Rig Bin

Built by ZyWeb, the best online web page builder. Click for a free trial.